Italian cities are cobbled, churches have dress codes, and August is hotter than most visitors expect. A practical packing list by season, plus the things people regret leaving at home.

If you only have time for one Italian city, the right answer depends on what you actually enjoy — not on which is objectively best. An honest comparison of all three.

The heel of Italy — trulli, whitewashed hill towns, the best olive oil in the country and coastline on two seas. What to see, where to base, and why you need a car.

Como, Garda, Maggiore and Orta are genuinely different places with different visitors. An honest comparison, plus how the ferries work and which towns are worth basing in.

Milan gets written off as a business city with a cathedral. It is the best-value base in northern Italy, the gateway to the Lakes, and the one place Italians actually dress for.

Italy in August is hot, crowded and half-shut. Italy in November is cheap, atmospheric and wet. An honest month-by-month breakdown, including the shoulder weeks most people miss.

Most first Italy itineraries try to fit four cities into seven days. Here is what each city actually needs, what the travel days really cost you, and realistic routes for 7, 10 and 14 days.

The fines arrive months later, by post, and most visitors never knew they broke a rule. How ZTL zones work, where you actually need a car in Italy, and where renting one is a mistake.